If I do my work in 30 minutes it's because I’ve spent 10 years perfecting my trade, in order to be able to complete a 30 minute task. Therefore, my fees are not solely based on my 30 minutes, but on my 10+ years of hard work mastering my skills.
I recently read the above statement on a social media platform, and it touched a chord with me. The comment is relevant to many professions including law and accountancy but its also supremely apt for photography.
It so touched a chord with me that I decided to write a list of the decisions I generally make before pressing my camera’s shutter button, and then I took it a step further by expanding on each decision.
So let’s start ……
Choice of subject
Clearly, I’m something of an arty farty type - ‘cos I only photograph flowers with whom I have a connection! It’s like a blind date with a clear YES/NO reaction! I am now a recognised figure at Bézier’s flower market as I pace up and down the stalls looking for ‘the one’.
Are there any dodgy petals/imperfections to remove from my subject?
Ah yes, perfection is my aim: in my life and in my images - I don't get even close in life! Any distractions, be it an imperfect petal towards the edge of the flower or an unwanted leaf, must come off. And consider background distractions too - no fences, people, rubbish etc.
Consider the light's quality and direction
Do I want to use my black box (see photo) or do I go without/rambo/rando.
How do I support my subject to ensure their stability?
I might keep the flower in the vase, or more often, I will support her in my bespoke clamp support.
Which lens best suits my desired outcome?
It’s not by chance that I’m a Lensbaby Ambassador: 95% of my images are taken with Lensbaby lenses/optics: each offering it’s unique style. I shoot my image KNOWING the desired outcome so choosing my lens/optic is a qualified decision.
Which aperture is best?
Am I looking for a crisp or supremely soft image? It’s not unusual for me to pass an hour (or more) capturing one flower alone during which time I use multiple apertures. Different F stops give a remarkably different outcome. Sometimes I find that both results are great. But I love, for I nstance, shooting with the Lensbaby Sol 45 - which has a fixed F3.5 aperture, and I confess that having one less decision to make is often a delight! Plus, with the SOL45, it’s hard to go wrong; it’s a great lens, and I have great fun experimenting with its bokeh blades while enjoying the results they give.
Will I use a macro filter?
Due to the style of my work, most of my images are shot using a macro magnification filter. My choice of filter strength will be in function with the desired outcome and the focal length of the lens I am using.
Quality of light
Do I need to use my light compensation button to add or subtract light?
Should I use a reflector?
I often find, when working in the afternoon, or on dull days, particularly when working with the subject in my black box, I need to add a little light to the subject’s centre, else it gets lost in shade. This can also be treated in post-production, but I prefer to get it right in camera. Furthermore, the reflector can add interesting shadow contrast on the petals - especially on a subject with strong lines, such as a dahlia.
Will a diffuser be necessary?
Conversely, when I have strong light, a diffuser is essential. I have even, on occasions, used a white linen shirt to diffuse the light, when nothing else was to hand. I absolutely do not want harsh light on my subject.
ISO selection
I mostly work on a stable support, a tripod, a platypod Pro or on the beautiful support created for me by a very attentive French guy!!! (Don’t let that distract you…!!) So - for me, my ISO is usually at 125, but when I shoot hand held, I often need to increase the ISO because I don’t want to have a slow shutter speed . Flowers aren’t going to stand still just for me!
And all of the above decisions are made before focusing and pressing the shutter button!
If the above is overwhelming, I offer video tuition sessions. Details on my website!
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